Thursday, September 12, 2019

Chronograph PK: TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre 1887 VS Tudor Heritage Chrono Blue

Both chronographs are from the 1970s. The TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre 1887 replica, debuted in April 2013, was designed in the style of the 1970s, with the crown in the middle of the chronograph on the top of the case. The Tudor Heritage Chrono Blue is an upgraded version of the Monte Carlo chronograph that was introduced in 1973. Like Monte Carlo, this recently launched watch has a double-layered design and a rotating bezel that shows the second time zone. We studied and tested these exercise chronographs to see what happens when they face each other.

The design of the TAG Heuer replica watch is sometimes referred to as the "bull head": the crown is at 12 o'clock and the two chronograph buttons are on either side of it, a bit like the bull's horn. This arrangement originated from the chronograph used in the beginning, and then slowly moved to the 1970s watch. It prevents the crown from being accidentally pressed by the back of the wearer's wrist. In addition, chronograph timing can be easily activated, stopped and reset with the index finger. In order to more severely ensure that the propeller is unobstructed, the slope of the top of the TAG Heuer's lug is larger than the slope at the bottom. Still, the watch is still easy to adapt to the shirt cuffs. We found that the comfort it wore was not reduced at all, although the carefully designed folding clasp was a bit cumbersome. But this closed structure has a locking mechanism that allows you to change the length of the strap at any time, so even a 45 mm dial won't slip back and forth on your wrist.

Looking at the Tudor watch, Tudor's case structure is complex, and the bezel is a glossy coating of stainless steel and titanium carbide. As the name suggests, titanium carbide is a composite of titanium and carbon. This material has a hardness of 4000 Vickers. We compare it to other watches: the common steel used in most watch cases has a Vickers hardness between 200 and 240. In addition to the bezel, the uncoated stainless steel portion is carefully ground and decorated with different surface finishes, satin finishes, or sandblasting. The watch movement is contained in a matt-coated case made of titanium coated with titanium carbide. Although the case of the Tudor watch is not as complicated as the TAG Heuer, it does have many high-quality features. For beginners, its crown and adjustment buttons help to waterproof the case to 150 meters – this is measured in our comparison. In addition, considering the sharp lower edge, side, chamfer, knurling, polishing and satin finish of the middle section of the case is absolutely accurate. Last but not least, the bezel's bezel snaps into place without swinging. This is increased to 48 units: this number can be set in a time zone that differs from adjacent zones by half an hour or 15 minutes.