Wednesday, January 18, 2017

Victorinox Swiss Army INOX Titanium Watch With Different Band Color

Victorinox Swiss Army INOX Titanium has a 43mm-wide case. If you recall, this is the watch for which Victorinox Swiss Army invested in dozens of stress tests. Overkill or not, the INOX watch collection is meant to stand up to a lot, including aging, shock, cold, heat, and extreme velocity. Steel handled the barrage of tests well, and I understand that the brand has now put the Victorinox Swiss Army INOX Titanium through the same testing.


Victorinox Swiss Army offers the INOX Titanium in three versions that come on different color straps. The models also have ticking seconds hands that match the strap color - which, theoretically, makes it tough to swap out straps as easily. With that said, these are an off-sized 21mm-wide strap, and offered in a high-quality rubber that lends itself well to a comfortable wearing experience. The three color options are (reference 241759) blue strap with blue seconds hand, (241758) orange strap with orange seconds hand, and (241757) gray strap with red seconds hand. To be honest, they are all nice, even though I think the gray with blue INOX titanium model will do the best.

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Glashütte Original Senator Chronometer Blue Watch

German chronometer watches adhere to the testing standards of the German Calibration Service known as DKD, the national accreditation body of Germany, an organization similar to the more well-known Swiss COSC. The requirements to pass the German test are very similar to the COSC with one important difference in that testing is performed on fully cased timepieces. In contrast, the COSC typically tests the movements before they are assembled in a case, using a temporary dial and the second hand attached.

To create the Glashütte Original Senator Chronometer dials, the brand uses a vintage technique called l’argenture grainée. At Baselworld this year, Glashütte Original CEO Yann Gamard described the dial process as requiring 70 steps! An arduous task for the craftsman, as imperfections caused at the beginning of the process are often only revealed upon nearing the completion of the dial. The highlights of the process are that the surface of the brass dial is media blasted with a mixture of water, chalk, and wood. Then a powder and water paste is applied by hand to the blasted surface to produce the attractive and unique varnish blue-grainé dial.

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Ulysse Nardin Classico America Watch In 2016

Add in Ulysse Nardin's marine chronometer history, and, well, an association is born. To commemorate the 35th anniversary of the America's Cup race, the brand has released the colorfully decorated Ulysse Nardin Classico America.
As far as the brand's watches go, the Ulysse Nardin Classico America is fairly tame. While the watch does indeed house a COSC movement, the focus here is on the dial. That is where a depiction of the very boat that gave the the America's Cup its name.

And if there's one thing that watch companies can leverage well, to both greater and lesser effect, it's heritage. I think the brand has done quite well here, all because of how the dial was created. Beyond the dial aesthetics is a UN-815 automatic movement that has a 42-hour power reserve. Sure, they could have gone with a simple paint job, even if done by hand, but instead they went with enamel cloisonné for the Ulysse Nardin Classico America. Each section of the dial (read: each color) is separated by fine gold wire; those sections are then filled with proprietary mixes that are fused to make the dial that we see. This is a historic and labor-intensive process - not unlike the racing of these boats. Oh, and even though it's inspired by a boat race, try not to go too deep with this watch - it's water resistant to 50m if you do get it wet.

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Wednesday, January 11, 2017

Waltham AeroNaval AN-01 43mm Watch In Different Color

Waltham brand had a distinct coolness, mixing video-game era futuristic looks with a refined European design and high-quality materials that prevented them from looking like well-made movie props. At about 3mm smaller than their larger, slightly more complicated relatives, the Waltham AeroNaval AN-01 43mm models do tend to wear better on more wrists. The cases haven’t just been reduced from the roughly 47mm-wide AeroNaval collection, but are also redesigned with a new shape all around.

The Waltham AeroNaval AN-01 lacks the black ceramic bezel of the brand’s larger AeroNaval 47mm collection of watches, but the cases are designed in such a way that wearers likely won’t mind. A principle distinction point of the Waltham AeroNaval AN-01 43mm watch is the slightly simpler movement as compared to the other collection which offers a model with a subsidiary seconds dial, a chronograph, or a GMT. Dubois-Depraz (the last time I checked) doesn’t make full movements, but is rather a specialist in making modules or otherwise modifying other Swiss movements. Inside the Waltham AeroNaval AN-01 43mm is a three-hand automatic movement with the date that they call the caliber W.DB-004 which is a base Swiss ETA.

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Tuesday, January 10, 2017

Manufacture Royale Androgyne Royale Steel Watch In Blue

For 2016, Manufacture Royale is updating its Androgyne collection with the new Manufacture Royale Androgyne Royale Steel, so let’s find out more about this watch. Though Manufacture Royale’s relationship with the French philosopher Voltaire is tenuous at best, there can be no denying that as an independent watch brand, Manufacture Royale is very bold, and that its Androgyne watch best personifies the brand’s daring and sense of adventure.


The conspicuous lugs and exposed screws are so macho to my eyes that there is simply nothing androgynous about the look. No one would likely call this a "unisex" watch. Still, it’s a funky and attention-grabbing name, and perhaps that was what Manufacture Royale was going for. The brand hasn’t messed around with the basics, and the new Manufacture Royale Androgyne Royale Steel still has that unique steampunk-inspired 52-part case that made the Androgyne collection great. The mirror-polished stainless case of the Androgyne Royale is 43mm wide, but thanks to special flexible lugs that can bend to fit the wearer more comfortably, and the exposed screws on the bezel, it will definitely look and wear bigger.

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